Contributions to this volume are by scholars, artists and practitioners drawn from a wide range of disciplines and fields, and from across the Global South and North. An overarching theme of the volume is the manner in which the act of walking brings the body into presence as a material part of the research process, and the forms of attentiveness that this encourages. Another theme is the intimate connection between the act of walking and the act of writing. As familiar landscapes change under the weight of Anthropogenic environmental change, walking becomes an act of witnessing and a spur to action. Rather than being a singular activity, walking itself is understood as a socially, economically and politically constructed and contested act. This volume will serve as a source of inspiration to readers from across the arts, humanities, and social sciences who are interested in walking methodologies and in new and sustainable research practices.
Publisher Routledge. ISBN nummer – 9781032010229. 300 hardcopy print. Editors: Christian Ernsten (Maastricht University) and Nick Shepherd (Aarhus University and the University of Pretoria)
Walking paths: ‘Homo Eclecticus’ about strolling, Jan Rothuizen
Amsterdam, 8 p.m. It’s already dark when it starts to snow. Not the wet kind of snow that sticks only to the cars. This is real snow, dry white flakes that flutter down like leaves and cover Amsterdam, the city I live in. I’ve gone out and am strolling through my city, which appears different due to the snow. The streets, bike lanes and footpaths have become indistinguishable, turning the city into a big, white stage, on which houses and cars seem to have been placed as props.
The streets are almost empty. With every step I take, the snow crunches under my feet and I leave a black impression. I cross the normally traffic-laden junction diagonally toward the entrance of the Oosterpark. The park seems to be giving off light tonight. The snowy lawns suck the light out of the purple-yellow sky above them. I walk onto the big lawn in the middle of the park. After crossing it, I turn around and see my footsteps standing out like black blotches in the whiteness. My trail isn’t as straight as I assumed.
I’ve always strolled. Walking, ambling, moseying and shuffling has always been the state of being in which I find the words to say what I feel and think. As a walker I am a part of my surroundings and at the same time their observer. I am here and I am there. It’s in this hybrid mode that my thoughts and senses become more associative, and I discover who I am or want to be at that moment.
To me, the best walks are always despairing, endless, vague and euphoric discoveries of myself and the world I move in. Walking has turned out to be not only my salvation on a personal level but also as an artist: it is a manner of being to which I constantly return. Strolling is about so many different things for me, that it’s hard to attribute a clear-cut significance to it. Sometimes it’s a sigh, a flight, a longing, a passion, and in other moments it’s a tool for understanding things.
The drawings of my walks that I make as an artist consist of intricately drawn stories, a combination of text and images. What I can’t draw, I write down, what I can’t describe, I draw. The form is eclectic, and the storylines are nonlinear. In my drawings I combine the wide range of thoughts, emotions and sensations I experience while walking. In this essay, I try to ascertain while walking precisely what walking is and means to me.
Sarphatistraat 8.15 p.m. I’ve left the park and am walking through a broad street which is usually full of trams and taxis. I stop at the Weesperplein, a crossing with a name suggesting it is a square, and look at the space that is revealed now the incessant stream of cars and people is absent.
I see other people for the first time, two women in long, quilted coats. Chattering, they cross the street obliquely.
I hear a crack as my shoe disappears into the snow. ‘Crack’. It’s a pity that I have to ruin the pristine, white surface with each step. ‘Crack’. But at the same time, there’s something ‘satisfying’ about it, as my eldest son would say. ‘Crack.’
Strolling through the snow, I remember the book Arctic Dreams by Barry Lopez. It has a drawing by Sunapignank, an Inuit who lives on an island in the Arctic Circle between Greenland and Canada. He drew the coastline where he hunts from memory, very precisely, with all its coves, inlets and even the islands before the coast.
Next to the drawing is an image of the same ragged coast made using modern cartographic techniques such as satellite images and geodesy. If you observe these two images side by side, you’d be amazed at how someone could render so meticulously from memory. His map is less precise despite the coves and little islands in front of the coast that it portrays. Most striking is the fact that his map is slightly more elongated, as if it had been drawn not from above but from a slight angle and at eye level, giving it the perspective of a walker.
One thing the book fails to mention is whether Sunapignank would have drawn this map of his own accord. It would seem unnecessary for someone who has assimilated his surroundings to such an extent. Why would you draw a map of something you know so well?
Amsterdam Oud Zuid 8.45 p.m. I walk on the Van Breestraat in Amsterdam Oud Zuid, a street with grand nineteenth century red-brick houses. Between the parked cars are acacias whose snowy branches bend toward each other across the street. I remember the crackling sound of the leaves in the summer when the wind blows. When the church clock strikes once, the sound of its steel bell fills a cavity in me that seems to have been created especially for it. I grew up in this neighbourhood and in my first eighteen years, I heard this church clock ring every half hour. Where the butcher used to be is now a real estate agency and the milkman on the corner is now a jeweller’s. I never come here anymore, but now in the snow and without any people, it’s briefly my old neighbourhood again.
Everyone is always completely alone for the first time at some point. For me, it was in New York in 1985. I was seventeen and travelling alone for the first time and it was my first visit to America. I didn’t really have any plans besides a big urge to go to New York, a city where I didn’t know anyone except for a friend’s brother at whose I could crash on the couch for the first few nights. The brother had forgotten that I was coming, which had me standing alone late in the evening in Midtown Manhattan, drained by jetlag-induced fatigue. After waiting for an hour, I decided to dive into New York, at that moment huge and overwhelming, by walking around the block of West 48th Street & 8th and 9th Avenues. I didn’t do it only once that evening, but as much as twenty times. I felt like Robinson Crusoe on his island but in the middle of a big city. Walking around the block worked for me because I saw things I knew and recognised and not much later I was recognised as well. Becoming familiar with a place by traversing it painstakingly would also become the point of departure of the walks I would later take as an artist.
Wetering circuit 9.15 p.m. It has stopped snowing. I walk over a bridge that is as flat as the road. To my right I read an inscription on a wall about resistance in the Second World War, a war whose survivors are now dying too. Before me is the Wetering circuit, a roundabout behind which the old city begins. The green treed circle, usually circulated by trams and cars, is buried under snow. It has now become a plain, an open space in the middle of the city.
Tonight, I don’t walk around it, but straight across. I once heard or read that here, between these very trees, is the geographical centre of the city. Everything is therefore equally distant and near to this open space. But what meaning does a centre have now that as blue, pulsating dots, we are always the centre of our own maps? I walk deeper into the old city, where the streets become narrower, and the houses lean against each other like old acquaintances.
In The New York Trilogy , a novel by Paul Auster, a detective follows someone through the streets of Manhattan. After shadowing him for days, he discovers that the routes the person he’s following takes are shaped like letters, letters that together form a message to him. This story was written in a time when no one had a phone with which you could track yourself ‘live’ on a map. We were already familiar with the bird’s-eye view, of course, but that we can see ourselves moving on a map, as if with the eye of God, is a wonder. A wonder, that at the same time, has become so everyday, that we get upset if we don’t see ourselves on our phone’s map. Walking in shapes that you can see only from above has exploded since the arrival of satnav. There are always the characters who create a track of their genitalia on the earth’s surface, but there are also more ambitious attempts, such as the man who proposed by covering more than 7,000 kilometres to write ‘WILL YOU MARRY ME’ across the length of Japan.
Long before people could know what the world looked like from outer space, the Nazca Lines were made in Peru. Between 900 and 200 BC, a monkey, birds and a dog with a long tail were rendered there. These animals, some of which are 275 metres long, are only visible from the air. The function and purpose of these drawings is still a matter of debate. Were they irrigation canals or symbols for deities up above? To me, they are mostly a form of early conceptual art, because the were a portrayal of things that existed at the time but couldn’t be seen by their creators.
The old city 9.40 p.m. The city is like a dog standing on ice, its legs slipping in all directions. Delivery boys walk beside their e-bikes. The first scooter I see drives at a snail’s pace through the snow. A car tries to cross a bridge that bends over the canal like the curved back of a cat, its wheels skid, causing the car to keep sliding back. I walk into a street that follows the gentle curve of a dike. I want this different city I’m walking through to exist a while longer. I want the delivery boys to stay home until everything goes back to how it always has been. The street that bends along a dike is called the Zeedijk. Behind these houses there used to be a port with a connection to the sea, and once you reach the sea, there’s the whole world.
You can also see the Zeedijk down to each individual house on my favourite map of Amsterdam, a woodcut by Cornelis Anthonisz from 1544. It portrays the old city centre from an imaginary bird’s-eye view, a point about 400 metres up. The city is surrounded by a wall with towers and gates. Cornelis Anthonisz tried to render this map as accurately as possible, despite the general understanding that such a perspective didn’t exist. The bird’s-eye view, which we now call 3D in Google Maps, was a revolutionary way of viewing the world in the middle of the sixteenth century, comparable to today’s virtual reality. The first bird’s-eye view map, View of Venice, had been published only 44 years previously by Jacopo de’ Barbari.
I started walking as an artist in New York . The year before, I’d graduated in the Arts in the Netherlands, where I made large paintings that looked like the art I was familiar with in museums. After spending the summer in the Maine forests, I travelled to New York, where I wanted to continue my painting in the studio I had found there. But that didn’t happen. I always found an excuse for not starting to paint. I kept going out to buy brushes, paint or anything else, but later I would go out because I’d realised that I felt, thought and saw more while strolling through New York. I could no longer find what I needed within the studio’s isolation.
People have an average of 50,000 thoughts per day. Probably not all equally high-flown, but collectively, this sea of micro thoughts shows us the world as we experience it. And coming to think of it, it was this stream of impressions, smells and unexpected encounters that kept drawing me back out into the streets.
It took some time before my view on what it is that artists do changed, but once it did, I knew that the streets were my studio and that the strolls I took were my work.
In the book On a Clear Day You Can See Forever, I collected all my walks in text and drawings. That was also when I started drawing maps. For the blue map of the New York metropolitan area, I let all the thoughts and reflections that I’d collected during my strolls flow back into the streets, avenues and motorways of New York. This resulted in a street map of impressions, reflections and transcriptions of what I’d seen.
The abundance of details I observe and lists I make during my walks is overwhelming, but they give me an impression of the experience I want to portray in a drawing at that moment. The author of Robinson Crusoe, Daniel Defoe, is often credited as the inventor of the realistic narrative. His books tend to be experienced as realistic because he includes an endless number of insignificant details, so boring they could only be true.
Red Light District 10.10 p.m. I walk along the canal in the Red Light District where the prostitutes always sit behind their windows, but tonight the windows are black holes and the red lights are out. I look up at the houses that look stretched, as if they’d been Photoshopped. The absence of all the bustle on the streets gives me the room to look at these houses as if for the first time.
Homo Eclecticus Walking is the ultimate state of being for the eclectic, the muddler, the gatherer, he who can’t choose. Everything that distracts him during his walks is who he is at that moment.
The amalgam of influences, sounds and memories: they’re all true, all welcome, and they come together in a big pot and for convenience’s sake, we’ll call the stock they produce ‘reality’.
Walking and thinking are interconnected but it seems as if while strolling, my thoughts are more connected to who I am at that moment, as if where I am is undetachable from who I am.
In De Renner , a book about cycling, the author, Tim Krabbé, writes that during intense physical exertion on his bike, every budding thought is immediately absolutely true and every unexpected occurrence becomes something you’d already always known. He describes his thinking as a pendulum, a smooth, black object that swings back and forth inside his head. I recognise the process of reducing thinking to true or false, bad or good while I walk.
Is arranging thoughts not in fact a meandering stream as opposed to a forced straight line? And am I, being a strolling thinker, a collector of things that have no apparent meaning but that together form a significant whole?
People sometimes say that they go for a walk in order to organise their thoughts. But that doesn’t apply to me. I in fact walk in order to disorganise my thoughts, to untangle the knot by letting it be and giving it free rein.
When I go out to get some fresh air, I allow myself to be distracted by a beeping car, the scents of a bakery, music coming out of an open window, the sunlight, the clouds, a yellow train riding through the green landscape. It’s this carefree chaos that eventually gives me the rhythm to come up with thoughts that I don’t need to write down because I’ve always had them and will never forget them, so natural and obvious that they don’t need to be explained.
Getting lost I’m startled. I was so lost in thought that for a moment, I don’t know where I am. It doesn’t last for more than a couple of seconds but it’s enough for me to see the street I’m in in a completely different way.
Some people think that you’re only truly somewhere when you don’t know where you are. Only then are you able to see the place you’re in as it really is. Anyone who has ever got lost knows how unpleasant it is when your surroundings are completely unrecognisable.
I once saw a documentary about a man who would wake up every day thinking he’d lain in coma for years. It was caused by a malfunctioning short-term memory. Every time he’d see his wife, he’d burst into tears because he was convinced that it was the first time he’d seen her after many years. He was lost in time.
TAKE CARE You are entering remote, sparsely-populated, potentially dangerous mountain country.
This was the inscription in white letters on a green sign we saw when entering the Cairngorms, the largest nature reserve in Scotland. After trekking for several days and sleeping in huts, my friend and I returned to the city of Inverness. We were to go from there to the airport the following day and fly back to Amsterdam. After a night in a real bed, we didn’t take a taxi or a bus but decided to walk the fourteen kilometres to the airport carrying our backpacks. The route passed along the coast, across farmland with barbed wire fences, a silty tidal zone and a swamp with reeds so high I had to check with my phone whether we were still headed in the right direction. Since we were in a hurry to make our flight, the challenge was to reach the airport using the shortest and quickest possible route. The last bit was a road where the cars honked at us as if we were doing something wrong. The Scottish Highlands were magnificent but, in some way, also predictably beautiful. Like us, the other walkers we encountered while trekking through the nature reserve were wearing raincoats and trekking shoes and carrying big backpacks. We talked with them about the weather, the walking routes and the stunning nature. This is partly why that final walk to the airport left the deepest impression on me. On this walk, we didn’t come across any other walkers except for farmers. We didn’t walk on paths with vistas and there were no signs. The route we followed was a straight line regardless of the fields, houses and roads we had to cross. It was a walk over terrain that hadn’t been laid out for people walking to the airport.
Prins Hendrikkade 10.38 p.m. The canal stops where the sea once began. There used to be hundreds of large and small ships here, as I know from a map of Amsterdam from 1544. At the end of the nineteenth century, an island was created in the middle of the silted-up port and given a train station. As a result, this place again became a port to the rest of the world, only now via train and across land. The building itself stands on 9,000 wooden poles—a whole forest’s worth!
I’m not that good at getting lost, much as I would like to. Sometimes I even try to, but that’s quite a challenge in the Netherlands because almost all the tracks are part of some walking-path. It’s practically impossible to find a walking-path without signage because every square metre has been accounted for by some zoning plan. In the woods I prefer to follow paths that gradually become tracks and eventually become so narrow that you no longer know whether you’re still following a track or simply walking through the woods between the trees. But this is getting lost for beginners; I still always know where I more or less am.
I don’t know whether it’s an aberration but I’m always aware of where I am in relation to my surroundings. I have a spatial pattern in my head in which I move around. In Amsterdam, this pattern is intricate and in places where I don’t know my way around it’s a coarse-lined grid. But it’s always there. Is it something instinctual, animal, a remnant of the Neanderthal in me? Or is it a control thing, always wanting to know where I am? My location awareness is always on, it’s like reading a book on the beach while keeping an eye on your children. Or like the cowboys in the Wild West who sleep by the campfire with one eye open.
My wife doesn’t have this problem, she never knows where she is. If she wants to indicate a place during a conversation, she points somewhere but more as a gesture. It always confuses me because the direction she points to is random and usually the wrong one.
Orientation is also simplification, plotting a street map in your head as a pattern in which you can place yourself—a recognisable environment. A man who designs mazes for people to get lost in, but not too lost, once said in an interview for The New Yorker that he sometimes places a rectangular space in the maze. He knows that people naturally assume that this space faces the same compass direction as the perimeter of the maze they’re in. But of course, that isn’t the case.
The Uruguayan author Eduardo Galeano gives a completely different example of how we cling to things we know. He writes that Latin America wasn’t discovered by the Spanish but was conquered by them. These men, who came with a religion and dreams of gold, never really knew where they were. The Europeans remained lost, and, like other colonists, they gave the places they found the names of the places they’d left behind.
New Amsterdam, New York, Brooklyn is Breukelen—it’s a reaction I recognise in myself. The first days in a foreign country, I catch myself comparing everything with things I already know, as if I’m unable to see the new as an independent entity.
I keep my phone on during these walks. Besides my footprints in the snow, I leave a digital trail. I can save the details of my movements in a walking app, but even when the app isn’t on, my presence is stored in an anonymous data centre somewhere with a lot of space and few people. Around Christmas, I always get an annual summary of my activities from Strava, the walking and biking app. I get information about my total number of kilometres, accumulated altitude and the longest walks as if they’re achievements. I image that in the future, when we die, we will get a map of our life with all the places we’d been to. This collection of lines, which will initially appear to be a big, chaotic jumble will, when zoomed into, turn out to be a copy of our nervous system.
I think that when you go somewhere you also leave something behind, not only digitally, or like I do now with my footprints in the snow, but also as an intangible presence. Yes, I know that sounds a bit New Agey, and in fact it is.
Central Station 10.50 p.m. The tunnel that goes under the railway is full of people waiting for the trains to start running again. The back of the station, where pedestrians and bikers usually arrive and depart with the ferry, is empty. The boats aren’t sailing.
The treadmill in the gym I go to has a screen that shows videos of different routes. Most are scenic, but the exception is also my favourite. It’s a walk along the San Francisco ‘waterfront’. There’s a park and a port where day-trippers hang around like cattle. You go by big sheds where events are organised and there’s a baseball stadium you have to go around. This waterfront route suits me because, like in real life, I’m curious about what the next bend will bring. I secretly hope to suddenly see the Golden Gate Bridge without knowing where it is.
Matthew Muspratt did a virtual 3,700-mile stroll across the United States with Google Street View. He clicked from West Quoddy Head, Maine all the way to Ozette, Washington. He started this walk through sixteen states when he was living in Rwanda and got homesick.
Muspratt said in an interview that there are boys who clicked from San Francisco to New York in ninety hours, but in Muspratt’s opinion, a true road trip isn’t a race. On the contrary: you need to slow down and maybe get a little lost. Muspratt noticed that he was clicking rhythmically, and that one place would evolve into the next. ‘Just like in the real world.’
This reminds me of On Exactitude in Science, a short story by Jorge Luis Borges about a kingdom where cartographers had made a life-size map of the country. The scale of the map is therefore 1:1.
But Photoshop is also part of how I see the world. In a place just outside Amsterdam where I like to walk, a big residential tower appeared one day, which disturbed the precise pattern of the meadows and the dikes. My reaction was to remove it digitally, the same way I erase smudges on my drawings with my computer.
Rokin 11.10 p.m. At a certain point in every walk, you have to stop and go back. When I walk with my wife and children, that moment always comes too soon. I prefer to just keep walking without thinking about how to get back, but tonight is different. I’ve been walking since the beginning of the evening, I’m thirsty and can feel my feet.
I walk toward the square where a dam was built in a river and where this city once began. The Dam is now a big square with a war memorial and a dark palace. Christmas lights sparkle above the empty, broad street. Tourists have crept out of their hotel rooms in search of life in this dead city.
The Soft Atlas I made my first walk drawings in Cairo. I was on a three-month working stay in the Egyptian capital. My flat was a stone’s throw away for the National Museum and Tahrir Square, where the Arab Spring demonstrations broke out in 2010. I experienced the first days in Cairo as a constant assault on my senses. Initially, it was due to the traffic, which passed by like a honking mass of liquid steel. Then there were all the people, especially men, on the street that wanted to sell, show or give me something despite my politely declining three times over. The first days, I took refuge in the Nile Ritz Carlton, a big, white building from the seventies with a view of the Nile. There was a café in the garden where men in white jackets served fruit juices to western tourists like me.
I decide to face the city, not in a suit of armour, but in a spotless white one and armed with a notepad in which I wrote down everything I saw and thought. My white suit was like a canvas on which the city I was travelling through would leave its mark. It bore like an imprint the traces of dust, sweat, dirt and scratches of the people I met. During these walks, I concentrated on my surroundings, the circle of my sensory perceptions, a way of working that reminded me of how bats find their way. A bat knows where it is by means of echolocation. The echoes of the high-pitched sounds it emits provide it not only with an image of its surroundings but also of who it is.
During a walk through Bulaq, an old working-class neighbourhood nearby the Nile, someone threw a dead rat at me. Maybe because with my white suit and notepad I looked like someone working for a property developer or something. Why someone would throw a dead rat at me isn’t important now. What I found interesting about it was that it made me aware of how variable a place could be. I knew I was walking through a poor working-class neighbourhood, but the dead rat instantly altered my image and mood. The city, which I had first perceived as cheerful, suddenly became hostile and unpredictable.
Meester Visserplein 11.30 p.m. It stopped snowing a while ago. An increasing amount of tyre tracks pass over the white road. In the busy intersections, the snow has turned into grey slush. I walk home past Artis Zoo. The animals I sometimes hear calling from their cages are silent tonight, but I can still smell their penetrating, animal odours.
The British author, Jonathan Raban, wrote Soft City in 1974, in which he argues that what we think about a place is as important as the concrete things we can grasp and count. In other words: the essence of a place manifests itself where the imaginary and the physical experiences of it come together. Where the hard city, with everything we can measure and grasp, clashes with the soft city, the city we think and dream about and project our thoughts on. Following my drawings in Cairo, I made a book of drawings about Amsterdam, a city so close, that it was difficult to properly observe. I called the book The Soft Atlas of Amsterdam, a tip of the hat to Raban’s Soft City.
The Soft Atlas is also the title of the collection of the more than 400 drawings that I made in the past ten years. These drawings have been previously published in books and newspapers and will be available under that title online from the summer of 2022.
In Space and Place, another book published in the seventies, the author and founder of humanistic geography, Yi Fu Tuan argues that the term ‘place’ is the reflection of a person’s subjective perspective. This explains why I prefer going on walks by myself: because that way I’m more perceptive to my surroundings and am less burdened with who I am. When I visit a place in order to make a drawing of it, I remain alert to inwardly directed sensations. For instance, if I walk through the centres of Bogotá or Medellín, I stick out as a ‘gringo’, whereas in more well-to-do areas, I’m barely aware of my European origin or skin colour.
Thinking back on the moment in 1995 when I gave up my studio in New York and decided that the street was my studio, I now realise I did something then that I wasn’t aware I was doing: by going out and meeting people I also partly gave up control over myself. You can keep the stories you create about yourself intact in the isolation of a studio with a door that can be shut but during a stroll in which you search for something without knowing what, you’re as receptive as the wind for encounters and occurrences you couldn’t have conceived of.
Alexanderplein 11.52 p.m. I arrive at a big, stately, towered building, formerly the Colonial Institute, but now the Tropenmuseum. The trams are running again, and the city has almost completely shaken off its white cloak. I want to go home now, I’m tired and quicken my pace when I see a man up ahead holding a bike. Immediately after I pass him, he starts calling to me; a barely comprehensible ‘sir’ at first and later, louder: ‘Sir, may I ask you something?’ ‘Sir, please and how nice of you. No, I mean it’s good of you to want to listen to me for a moment. I’d like to ask you something, or no, you should first know that I could shout it out. I could shout it out so loud it’ll break all the windows in the city.’ I stop. The man with the short, dark hair has followed me for a short distance and is now standing still before me. At first, I thought he was drunk, then that he was a junkie because he looked like he was being tormented by things he had no control over, but now that I stand before him and listen to him, I understand that he’s confused. He says that he’s got it all settled, that his lawyer has finally found him a home and that it’s almost ready but that he hasn’t slept for three days and maybe, by some chance could I give him twenty euros so that at least tonight he could finally sleep because he’s so terribly tired. ‘I don’t have any money on me,’ I say as I take the case I keep my cards in out of my pocket. I see there are two folded fivers in it. ‘You’re in luck,’ I say as I unfold the bills and hand them to him. For a moment, he tries to get me to give him more money but immediately apologises when I tell him with an ‘angry’ voice that I’ve given him all I have. It’s the same angry voice I use when my children are naughty. He thanks me again, in the first place for stopping and in the second for willing to listen to him. When I bid him farewell and walk on, he calls to me again from a distance. ‘Sir,’ he calls, ‘sir, a kiss on your heart.’
I walk the last bit home with a smile on my face because a total stranger has just kissed my heart.
Amsterdam, January 2022
Translated from Dutch by Moshe Gilula
https://www.routledge.com/Walking-as-Embodied-Research-Drift-Pause-Indirection/Ernsten-Shepherd/p/book/9781032010229